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A Step by Step Breakdown of the “Partner of a New Zealander Resident Visa” Application

Wherein I walk you through the nine page application, page by page, so you know what to expect and what you’ll need to gather together ahead of time. This post is for that one person who may or may not ever stumble upon this blog while googling what the PNZerRV application looks like (you’re welcome, internet stranger). For everyone else: proceed at your own risk of potential abject disinterest.

(Because I promised to never post without photos, please enjoy this brief interlude):


Date I applied: January 7, 2025
Cost: $5,360 NZD ($3,024 USD)
Processing time: 80% of these types of visas are decided upon within 7 months.
TIP: You can start this application at any time and save your progress as you go. I highly recommend starting well in advance of the time you plan to submit, especially when it comes to gathering things like letters of support from friends and family and finding a notary.

Page 1: “Identity and Contact“
Basic information about you: full name, date/place of birth, passport number, social security number, phone number, current address, most recent address in your home country, and a few other easy questions.

Page 2: “Visa Details“
What kind of visa you are applying for (that is, are you the partner of, or the child of, the “support person” (aka the person supporting this visa application). It asks if this support person is a New Zealand citizen/resident/expat, and also asks if you are currently living together and have been for 12+ months, which is a requirement for this visa.

Page 3: “Supporting Person Details“
Basic information about your supporting person. Their full name, date/place of birth, passport number, and a few other easy fill-in-the-blank type of questions.

Page 4: “Additional Applicant Details“
Asks you if there will be additional applicants (i.e. a child); a quick Yes/No question.

Page 5: “Principle Applicant’s Health Details“
This has a big block of Y/N health-related questions such as “Do you have tuberculosis,” “Do you require renal dialysis,” “Do you require hospital care,” “Are you pregnant,” etc. It asks you to list any country you’ve lived in for 3+ months during the last 5 years and then asks if you submitted a general medical exam and chest x-ray on your prior visa application, and, if so, were they done within the last 36 months (if not, they will very likely make you get new ones done).

Page 6: “Principle Applicant’s Character Details“
A long list of Y/N questions related to any criminal background activities you may have. My favorite questions are “In any county, including New Zealand, are you currently under investigation, wanted for questioning, or facing charges for any offense?” and “Do you have an outstanding arrest warrant in any county, including New Zealand?”. I’m curious to know, considering that you are giving them your current address, SSN, photo, passport information, and the names and addresses of your parent and siblings, if anyone has actually ever answered “Yes” to any of these.
It also asks if you’ve provided a police certificate from your country within the last 24 months (yes, I have. I talked about the process of getting it here).

Here’s a list of the questions:

Page 7: “Family Details”
They want to know the names, addresses, dates of birth, partnership/marital status, occupation, citizenship, and country of birth for your parents and siblings (living or not).

Page 8: “Apply on Behalf/Assist“
Asks if you are completing the application on behalf of someone else, and if you received assistance from an immigration advisor (a quick Yes/No).

Page 9: “Upload Documents”
Here’s where you upload all the documents they require, as well as ALL the documents you’re not required to submit but absolutely 100% should submit. Uploads must not exceed 10 MB, and if you have multiple things to submit that all fall under the same category, combine them into one PDF.

Let’s cover the required documents first. You’ll need to upload a photo of your passport, a passport-style headshot, your birth certificate, and your” ID card” (this one is optional, but I uploaded my social security number card). If you’ve had your required medical exam, you enter your eMedical reference number.

  • “Evidence that your relationship is genuine and stable” (I uploaded the letters that my mom, dad, and sister wrote, combining them into one PDF).
  • “Evidence that you have been living with your partner for more than 12 months” (we used a letter from our landlord).
  • “Timeline of Partnership” This part of the application took me far and away the most time (I wrote a blog entry about my process of writing it here). Because I’d already completed the timeline through March 2024–when I applied for my partner work visa–I just needed to pick up where I left off and finish out 2024 with significant events and milestones in our partnership, things like when he took me to visit his hometown for the first time, when we spent the day together edxploring Wellington, and when he finally got to meet my family and friends in the States. When I first started compiling the relationship timeline about a year ago, I realized pretty quickly that it was going to be long; I can’t not tell a story if there’s a story there to tell. What I ended up doing, for better or for worse, was to submit an extremely long document that starts off by explaining that pages 1-3 were the abridged partnership timeline of simple dates and events for brevity’s sake, but if the person reading this had time, pages 4-16 were where the real story was.
  • “Evidence that your partner is a New Zealand citizen” (I uploaded a photo of Stu’s passport).
  • The completed “Partnership Support Form for Residence (Form NZ 1178).” (Stu had to fill this one out and get it notarized. The form asks for much of the same information I’d already given them, such as full name, date/place of birth, address, etc).

    That’s all of the required information. Technically, you can stop here, proceed to the next page, enter your credit card details, and submit your application.

    But from everything I’ve read and everyone I’ve talked to, you don’t want to do that. You want to give them a whole lot more. In fact, I possibly gave them too much more; the dropdown list of things you can give them is so vast that I figured “why not!”. Apologies to the immigration officer assigned to my case. 😬

    So after you have satisfied all of the required uploads and it says “Are there any other documents you wish to provide in support of your application?”, you’re going to say HELL YES THERE ARE!

    Here is the full dropdown menu of options for things you can provide them with to lend more weight to your application:

Wait, there’s more…


I have no idea what some of these mean (“Plans in New Zealand”?) and some of them don’t apply to me (“Australian passport”, Right to remove a child”).

But I did have things I could upload that fell under some of these categories. Here are the categories I used and what I uploaded under said category:

Genuine and stable partnership evidence (I uploaded each of these as its own PDF since they are separate items):
* Letters of Support from our family and friends (all in one PDF). I asked my friends and family back home to write us letters, since they had now met Stu and seen us together as a couple, and then I asked everyone who had written us letters of support for my first visa to update those letters for me.
* A photo timeline I created in Canva. It starts with the very first photo we ever took together and ends with our visit to see his sister last week. It’s 23 pages of well-laid-out and captioned/dated selfies, social media posts (complete with all the likes and comments), pictures we’ve taken of ourselves at concerts, pictures our friends have taken of us at concerts, pictures with the friends who took pictures of us at concerts, pictures of me and the kids, pictures of our trip to the States last October, pictures of Stu with my family. When I began adding fun clip art like guitars and pumpkins, I realized I was back in middle school doing some lavishly illustrated (and totally unnecessary) picture to accompany a one-page book report and that I might be seen as a sycophant vying to be “Immigration Officer’s pet” (as opposed to teacher’s pet). I left the guitar and pumpkin clip art but didn’t add anything else.
* Our WhatsApp chat history. I downloaded our nearly five-year correspondence (minus photos) and then paid 99 cents for PDF Guru to compress that massive 12.86 GB file into a PDF small enough to upload. (And then you have to cancel the 7 day free trial before you start paying for PDF Guru).

Police certificate: I uploaded a copy of my squeaky clean NZ background check, which I requested here. You fill out and sign a very brief form, upload it, and they email you the results within a week (there’s no cost associated with this). Again, I’ll emphasize that at no point had I been asked to provide a NZ background check to Immigration, but since it was free and easy I thought it wouldn’t hurt.

Evidence of Shared Financial Dependency: Screen shots of our joint BNZ account

Evidence of funds: Screen shot of my personal BNZ checking and savings accounts

Evidence of financial dependency: Screen shots of our utility account with both of our names on them, as well as screen shots of every time my half of the rent came out of my account and into his.

Driver’s license: I uploaded photos of my Massachusetts and NZ driver’s licenses

Evidence of employment and business being undertaken. I uploaded screenshots of my paystubs for my landscaping job

Records of previous travel: Screen shots of receipts for all of our flights to and from the US (with our names on them), as well as Air BnB receipts from our travels around New England

Once you have finished uploading everything you feel will help Immigration make a positive determination on your application, you save your progress, go back to page 1, and neurotically proofread the whole nine pages. And then you click “Next,” check a box saying that this was the truth, the whole truth, and nothing but the truth, and enter your credit card number to pay them a s**tload of money. A few days later you will receive an automated email saying they’ve received your application and will be in touch if they need more information. Otherwise, you will be notified when they have made a decision on your application.

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Merry Christmas, Happy New Year, and I Just Submitted My Next Visa!

And I’m sorry that this post is SO LONG. I have sprinkled in beautiful photos of New Zealand to hold your interest.

When I was visiting my family and friends in the States last October, I had a number of people ask me to report back on what it was like to have Christmas in summer. I am reporting back to tell you that, much like my December “birthday,” Christmas felt like “Christmas,” in quotes. Don’t get me wrong; it was an absolutely lovely day. It just didn’t feel like Christmas as I know it.

I spent the day at a friend’s house with Stu and the boys. Temperatures were in the mid 70s and sunny, and the backyard was filled with vibrant blooms of flowers. We barbecued in the back yard (as one does in New Zealand on December 25th) and played with the boys’ new presents. And then I had the utmost honor/honour of decorating the pavlova, which is a traditional meringue-based dessert that originated in New Zealand NOT IN AUSTRALIA. This is a hotly, hotly contested subject, and since I am applying for residency in New Zealand, I feel it necessary to emphasize that the pavlova is, without a doubt, obviously, a dessert of Kiwi origin. Wherever it originated, pavlova, particularly when homemade and slightly gooey on the inside and slightly crusty on the outside, is delicious.

Ta da: my first pavlova! Baked by Stu, decorated by me and the boys.


But man oh man, does it feel bizarre listening to Christmas carols and unwrapping gifts in summer. At one point, while helping to tidy up the wrapping and tissue paper, I reflexively turned to throw them into the fireplace. Muscle memory, I suppose.

And even though we didn’t end up making it to midnight, it was also a trip celebrating New Year’s Eve doing something other than standing around a bonfire in the snow wearing a winter jacket, boots, scarf, mittens, and a hat, feeling 50% festive and 50% miserable, drinking beer just to stay warm. By the way, New Zealand is one of the first countries in the world to enter the New Year. The first country is the tiny island nation of Kiribati, but they only beat NZ by an hour. (Hawaii is one of the last places in the world to see the New Year).

On to the visa update...

Five days ago, I submitted my application for the second of three visas. I should hear back in about 7 months [nervous exhale].

Since it’s been a while, let me reiterate my visa situation as it stands:

I am currently here on a one-year Partner of a New Zealander Work Visa, which expires May 21, 2025. The next one, which I just applied for, is the Partner of a New Zealander Resident Visa. Before you freak out with excitement, this is not “THE” visa that grants me permanent residency, which is the end goal. What this visa does is allow me to continue to live and work in NZ, and travel to and from NZ, for two years. Basically, it extends my current situation by 24 months. (Something puzzling that I recently worked out: Immigration has the length of stay for this visa as “Indefinite,” but it also says “Your travel conditions will expire 2 years from the date you first arrive in New Zealand as a resident.” Confused by this seeming contradiction, I did a deep dive and found out that apparently, you can live and work in NZ for the rest of your life just on a Resident Visa–so long as you never leave NZ after your “travel conditions” expire).

Please enjoy this picture of a full rainbow over Mercury Bay that I took back in September:

After two years of being on the Partner of a New Zealander Resident Visa, I apply for a Permanent Resident Visa. That is the biggie: the one that will allow me to live in New Zealand, and travel in and out of New Zealand, forever. 🍾 🥂 🎉 🌟

After five years of being a Permanent Resident, I can choose to, but am not required to, apply for New Zealand citizenship. For those of you wondering what the differences are between a Permanent Resident and a Citizen, I have put all of that information at the very end of this post. To answer a common question: yes, being a Permanent Resident gives me the right to vote. To answer a question no one has asked me because who would think to ask this: I recently found out that if I become a NZ citizen, the oath of citiizenship I have to recite begins like this: “I, Hilary Emerson Lay, swear that I will be faithful and bear true allegiance to His Majesty King Charles the Third, King of New Zealand…”. Then, according to Wikipedia, “new citizens then join in the singing of God Defend New Zealand before enjoying a cup of tea.” Americans are allowed to have multiple other citizenships, but I’m legitimately worried that my U.S. citizenship will automatically be revoked upon my swearing allegiance to the Crown?!

So that’s my visa timeline. One visa under my belt, one visa application in the works, one visa left to go after that. If all goes as planned, I should have Permanent Residency around September 2027. 🤞🏼🤞🏼🤞🏼

Here is a pretty picture of nasturtiums growing along a fence in Kaimarama:

It wasn’t until mid-November, when a fellow American I met at a concert here in NZ reached out to commiserate with me about the outrageous visa price hike, that I found out about the outrageous visa price hike. On October 1 of last year, Immigration New Zealand quietly doubled the cost of all visas.

I say “quietly” because I never read a thing about it. After googling it I found this announcement back in early August saying that Immigration New Zealand would be “significantly” raising its costs as of October 1. It was not a widely covered news story, but it damn well should have been. I find it a horrific oversight that those of us here on any type of visa wouldn’t have gotten a heads-up email from Immigration about the doubling of fees. There’s not much any of us could have done about it, but it would have been nice to at least know.

Here’s how crazy the new prices are: the Partner of a New Zealander Work Visa–the visa I am currently here on–cost me $860 NZD when I applied in March. It now costs $1,630.

(Here is a pretty picture of the view from a customer’s back yard in Matarangi to soften the upcoming blow:)

The one I just applied for, The Partner of a NZer Resident Visa, which has always been the most expensive of the three, went from $2,750 NZD ($1,530 USD) to………….

$5,360 NZD. $3,024 USD. 😱

This sudden, massive increase in visa fees is apparently the doing of the National Party, who claim that more money is needed to process the large number of visas they get every year. Opponents say the move will discourage people from moving here, which they claim is National’s intended goal.

Immigration Minister Erica Stanford stated that “these changes aim to shift the cost of the country’s immigration system from taxpayers to those benefiting from it,” and that “the new charges reflect the costs associated with visa processing, assessing, and managing more high-risk applications, and increased compliance costs as we deal with higher levels of migrant exploitation, managing more asylum claims, and maintaining and upgrading Immigration New Zealand’s ICT systems.”

I’m all for reducing migrant exploitation and helping people seeking asylum, and I don’t know or care what an ICT system is. But the “high risk” thing really pisses me off. Because a quick internet search told me that a “high risk” risk visa application would be one where “the applicant is considered likely to pose a potential security risk to the country due to factors such as criminal history or concerns about their character, which leads to a more thorough vetting process by Immigration.” Why should I have to pay more for my not-security-risk-to-the-country visa application so that Immigration can better process a visa application from someone who is “likely” to pose a potential security risk to the country? Shouldn’t they just charge them more??

But some good news did follow the bad news: the processing time for the visa I just applied for went from 9-12 months down to 7 months. The original idea of having to be away from my loved ones back home for 12 months was killing me. So in all honestly, I’d rather have to pay this surprise extra $1,500 and spend less time away from everyone I love back home. The power of positive thinking, right? Also, the exchange rate right now is the best I’ve ever seen ($1 USD to $1.79 NZD), so I put the application fee on my credit card that I pay off in USD—and I get a bunch of airline miles that I’ll use for my next trip home in only 7 (not 12!) months. Win/win.

All of this visa Googling gave me a thought: could I apply for my Resident Visa earlier than May 21, 2025? Did I have to wait until right before my current visa expires to submit my next application? I called Immigration and spoke with a lovely woman named Linda who proceeded to take me on a rollercoaster ride of emotions.

She said that no, I did not have to wait until May to apply for my next visa. The requirement for the Partner of a NZer Resident Visa is that you and your partner have been living together for 12 months. As soon as Stu and I hit the 12 month mark on January 4, I could submit the next visa.

We interrupt this programme to bring you a pretty picture of a fuchsia from our garden:

But then Linda reminded me about something I knew at one point but must have conveniently blocked out: they do not grant Interim Visas for people applying for Resident Visas. When I was here on my 90-day Visitor Visa back in March and submitted my Work Visa, they automatically granted me an Interim Visa that allowed me to stay in NZ (without working, obviously) until they made a decision on my Work Visa. But they do not do Interims for Resident Visas. And I can’t, obviously, be in the country without a valid visa. And since my Work Visa expires May 21, 2025 and my Resident Visa will likely not be approved until July or August 2025, I have one of two unpleasant options:

1: Reapply and re-pay-for the !!@!@#$% Partner Work Visa I’m already on (to the new tune of $1,630 NZD) just to cover me for an approximate two month gap in visas.

2: Leave the country before May 21 and then come back when my Resident Visa is approved. But that would mean leaving NZ for more than two months, and the $1,630 NZD to renew my Work Visa is cheaper than it would be for me to fly home (or anywhere else) and miss work for two months.

“Maybe,” I said to Linda at Immigration in a hopeful little voice, “my Resident Visa will be approved before my Work Visa expires, so I don’t have to pay for it all over again just for, like, 8 weeks of coverage?”.
Linda hesitated. “It’s very unlikely…..but yes. Maybe.”
I’m going to cling to Linda’s “maybe.”

Linda did give me a bit more good news, though: my “police certificate” (aka the FBI background check from Dec 2023) and my expensive medical exams done here in NZ in Jan/Feb 2024 are all still valid for the next visa, meaning I didn’t need to go through and pay for any of that again. Thank god.

Being the neurotic person that I am, I started my visa application back in June, since you can save your progress as you go and I wanted to see what this application entailed and whether or not I’d need to collect even more evidence ahead of time. It’s essentially the exact same application as the one I did last year except they want a little more information for this one. My next post, likely a boring one for most of you, is a step by step breakdown of everything they ask for in the application.

It’s a huge relief that the final visa I need to obtain–the Permanent Resident one–only costs $315 NZD and has a two week approval turnaround time. I’d rather get the shitty expensive one with the longest wait time over with sooner, rather than have it looming down the pipeline.

Pictures from an overnight in Hahei a few weeks ago:

And that’s al the news from here. New Year, hopefully new visa. Now I wait.

Much love to all of you. I’m glad you’re along for this wild ride with me.
H. ❤️


As promised: for anyone who is interested, this is the difference between a Permanent NZ Resident and a NZ Citizen, as taken from the Pathways NZ website (Pathways is a collective of licensed immigration officers):

New Zealand residence entitles the holder the right to live, study and work in New Zealand and to:
• be eligible for publicly funded health and disability services
• have access to education in state education institutions the same as local students and tertiary fee subsidies and student loans (after a qualifying period)
• be eligible for social welfare benefits
• vote in local and general elections
• service on a jury
• to buy a home and property once settled
• have a career in the New Zealand defence forces

In order to be eligible for the grant of New Zealand citizenship a person normally must:
• have held a New Zealand resident visa and lived in New Zealand for a total of at least 1,350 days during the five years immediately before making their citizenship application; and
• have lived in New Zealand for a total of at least 240 days in each year of the five years immediately preceding the date of their application

Citizenship applications are processed by the Citizenship Office which is part of the Department of Internal Affairs, and each person must meet the eligibility and make a separate application.

In addition to all of the above rights conferred by New Zealand residence New Zealand citizenship provides full economic and social rights including:
• holding a New Zealand passport and being able to travel internationally on this passport
• access to New Zealand Embassy/Consular support and assistance when overseas
• standing for New Zealand Parliament and local government roles
• representing New Zealand in international sports (e.g., Olympics)
• being eligible for education scholarships which are only open to New Zealand citizens
• being able to visit, live and work in Australia (by being issued a Special Category Visa automatically on arrival as a New Zealand citizen)

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Where Do I Even Begin? I Have SO Much To Fill You In On.

Let me start by apologizing for not having posted since August. So much for my intention of starting a blog where I’d be “posting regularly” and “keeping my readers engaged”. My only partial excuse for my lapse in posts is that I have a lot less time to write now that I work full-time, but I could *absolutely* be watching fewer Netflix true crime documentaries and making better use of the free time that I do have. I actually have been writing; I have more than two dozen draft posts going at any given time. I just haven’t managed to finish anything since…well, since August, apparently.

Anyway, I have an unexpected day off due to torrential downpours, so I’m finally ripping off the bandaid (“plaster”) and finishing this one.

Moving on to the aforementioned “SO much to fill you in on.”

Last Wednesday was, according to the calendar and the humbling number of messages I received from both sides of the pond, “my birthday.” But it didn’t feel like my birthday. At all. Because in New Zealand, being born on December 4th means you have a summer birthday.

For the majority entirety of my life until this point, I’ve had a winter birthday, which, where I’m from, means 1. zero leaves on the trees 2. permanently overcast grey skies 3. occasional snow 4. utter darkness and despair when the anemic “sunlight” disappears at 4:30 pm 5. temperatures cold enough that you can see your breath outside and 6. all the mini golf courses where as a kid you desperately wanted to have your birthday party are shuttered for the season and all of those alluring, giant, colorful animal and pirate figurines are wrapped up tightly against the damage of a harsh New England winter. So having everyone wish me a Happy Birthday on a 74 degree, humid, sunny day where everyone was out and about enjoying the beautiful weather and the mini golf course was open felt like all of my friends and family had collectively decided to prank me with birthday messages. It was, no exaggeration, surreal. And Stu, who’s birthday is in July–a winter birthday here in New Zealand–would have a summer birthday in the States. It’s like having upside-down birthdays. 🙃 🎂

pōhutukawa

Sunday, December 1st was the first official day of summer here in New Zealand. Their seasons begin on the first day of every third month: December 1 marks the start of summer, March 1 is fall, June 1 is winter, and September 1 is spring; so easy to remember! It definitely feels like summer, but it doesn’t even remotely feel like December. The weather here right now is in the high 60s to low 70s, mostly full sun, occasionally muggy and humid. The intense sunlight, blossoming pōhutukawa trees (aka the New Zealand Christmas Tree, pictured here), summer attire everywhere, ads on the radio announcing summer events, and stores prominently displaying summer merchandise next to Christmas merchandise while “Santa Baby” plays throughout the building is confusing the hell out of me. IT’S SO WEIRD YOU GUYS.

But a lot more than upside-down birthdays and intense seasonal confusion has happened since August. In no particular order:

1. I got a new car–an equal parts really reliable and really funky-looking old Totoya Echo (an Echo is sort of like a Yaris squished into a cube shape). I found out in September that my dear old Alfa needed a new engine. I don’t know a lot about cars, but I was correct in assuming that I could get an *entire other car* for less than it would cost me to replace an entire Alfa Romeo engine.
2. I booked the Whitianga Town Hall for 9 days in January to run a mini half-day art camp (yay!). My dream is to eventually run a summer-long kids art “holiday programme” here in Whiti, so this is sort of my soft opening attempt at testing the waters.
3. I’ve changed my hair color about six times.
4. New Zealand Immigration significantly raised the prices of visas on October 1st. Significantly raised them. I’ll post about that.
5. A friend from Cape Cod (well; technically the daughter of an old friend, but she’s definitely a friend now!) just moved to my little NZ town for three months. She was planning to live somewhere on the North Island for the summer, and I may or many not have lured her to Whitianga. It’s been wild having a friend from the Cape suddenly living down the road from me!

Oh yeah, and I took Stewart to the United States to meet everyone!

Here’s a photo of me, Stu, and my parents at their house on Cape Cod in October. He finally, after 4.5 years, got to meet my beloved awesome family and some of my closest friends, and they, after 4.5 years, finally got to meet him. It was so. much. fun.

We flew over together in late September; he stayed for two weeks (we booked the trip to align with his spring vacation from the school where he is the school librarian) and I stayed until early November. To answer a frequently asked question: yes, Stu has been to the States a couple of times, but not since 2012, and he never went anywhere near my neck of the woods (which is New England/the northeast/the upper right-hand corner of the USA).

We saw so many people and did so many things in those two weeks. We got to spend good chunks of time with my parents and my sister and her partner. I introduced him to some of my best Cape Cod friends, some of my closest North Shore friends, some of my nearest and dearest Western Massachusetts friends, and one of my awesome cousins. Some of them had “met” Stu on video chat a few times over the years, but of course it’s not the same as everyone meeting in person. There was an abundance of big, warm, welcoming hugs from everyone.

For the Cape tour, we stopped in at Instant Karma Records in Orleans (for Stu it was pure love at first sight), drove up to Wellfleet and got Box Lunch which we sat and enjoyed at Wellfleet Harbor–one of my favorite spots on the Cape–and made it up to Provincetown with just enough time to briefly explore Commercial Street and enjoy drinks on a deck overlooking the water before I had to whiz us back for an incredible night with my parents and our longtime family friends Paula and Chris, the latter of whom is a musician. Chris and Stu have had a long-distance musical love affair for a while via social media, and when they finally got to jam together on their guitars it was magic. My Dad put it best when he said that it was like listening to a musical conversation flowing seamlessly back and forth. I think we stayed for four hours that night, and then went back a few days later for another round of duets. Chris let Stu borrow a guitar for the duration of our trip, a guitar which actually belonged to my Dad back when he was a Boston University undergrad. Chris had it restored a few years ago as a surprise. It was touching to have Stu give a new life to my Dad’s old college guitar.
Other Cape Cod adventures included a trip to the Edward Gorey House and then stopping at a roadside farm stand where Stu got to wander through hay bales and pumpkins galore. He tried apple cider and some raw cranberries (Cape Cod is famous for its cranberries. Raw cranberries, in contrast to sweetened cranberry juice, are almost painfully tart, something Stu realized almost immediately, though to his credit he didn’t spit them out).

The beautiful Boston Gardens with a statue of George Washington behind us. Yes, I had to google who the dude on the horse was.

We explored downtown Boston and a bit of Cambridge for an afternoon, where I took him to the Boston Commons and Gardens, the Boston Public Library, The Harvard Bookstore, and an off-the-beaten-path vinyl shop.

I introduced him to the glories of Halloween by taking him to Salem, Massachusetts in the middle of October, when “Witch City” is at the height of Halloween frenzy (Halloween is a fairly recent addition to New Zealand and, compared to what we’re used to in the States, is very small-scale). He played an open mic at Gulu-Gulu Café with my friend Jenne, which was something I’ll never forget. He tried candy corn for the first time, and when we got back to the Cape he got to carve jack-o-lanterns with my family (his was fantastic! Photo below).

I couldn’t wait to take him out to Western Mass and show him the overwhelming beauty of a real New England autumn. Due to a particularly dry summer, the foliage wasn’t *as* stunning as it can be, but for the uninitiated, it was spectacular. We had dinner with friends, explored downtown Northampton, and hiked to the top of Mt. Sugarloaf for an extraordinary view of the Pioneer Valley and Connecticut River. And he played another open mic, this one at Luthier’s Co-Op, a legendary spot.

We packed so many adventures and experiences into just ten days. I took him to a real American diner where he got steak and eggs for breakfast. I introduced him to the glory of sour beers, which unfortunately don’t seem to widely exist here in KiwiLand. I took him to my beloved Trader Joe’s grocery store. We went to Fall Festival at a city park just north of Boston and he got to hold his first snake (no, they don’t have snakes in NZ, and no, I don’t know why they have a snake guy at a fall festival). I am not including a photo of Stu and the snake because I know my Mom will be reading this and she strongly dislikes snakes (you’re welcome, Mom) but I’m happy to send it to anyone who isn’t my Mom and wants to see it.

And then he flew back for the start of the last school term and I stayed an additional 3.5 weeks to spend more time with everyone. And now I’m back in New Zealand and it’s somehow summer but also December.

We had such an incredible trip. Thank you so much to all of you who helped make Stu’s time in the States unforgettable. We can’t wait to see you all again!

And to everyone else, thanks for reading. It feels good to be writing for you again. I’ve missed you guys!

Love,
Hilary ❤️

PS: As always, you can follow my New Zealand Chronicles Instagram account here, where I regularly post beautiful photos (like these ones), which will hopefully help all of you back home get through the winter.

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Hellllllo From The Antipodeeeees……

(It doesn’t quite roll off the tongue like the Adele song….)

First off, yes! I got my email subscription to work! Huzzah! Thanks for everyone’s patience while I labored through that annoying WordPress plugin issue.



I’m here today to geek out about a cool concept–and cool word–which I stumbled across a few years ago in my New Zealand research: “antipodes”.

Antipodes (singular: antipode) comes from the Greek word ἀντίποδες, which roughly translates as “those with feet opposite ours” and referred to people living on the other side of the world.

The antipode of any spot on Earth is the point on Earth’s surface diametrically opposite to it. That is, if you chose a spot and dug a hole straight through the center of the earth and came out the other side, you’d find that spot’s antipode. The antipode of Whitianga, New Zealand—where I live—is Malaga, Spain. The antipode of Cape Cod, Massachusetts—where I grew up—is several hundred miles off the coast of Perth, Australia.

The antipode of Cape Cod, Massachusetts.

Australia and New Zealand are (apparently; I’ve never personally heard it) sometimes called “The Antipodes” by inhabitants of the Northern Hemisphere, and Australians and New Zealanders are (again, I’ve never heard this) sometimes called “Antipodeans.” A quick google search of “antipodes New Zealand” brings up a number of NZ companies with the word “antipodes” in the name, including a line of skin exfoliants, a chemist, and a company that sells water, so it seems like the word is not entirely uncommon here, at least in the skin exfoliant/chemistry/bottled water industries.

Because 71% of the Earth’s surface is covered in water, only about 15% of any given point of land has an antipode that’s also on the land. And there’s a good chance everything else has an antipode in the Pacific Ocean, since it’s so massive. In fact, the Pacific Ocean is so massive that it contains a number of its own antipodes. Out of the 15% of land that has other land as its antipode, the biggest examples are certain sections of eastern/southeastern China, Mongolia, and Russia, whose antipodes are in Argentina and Chile; the Malay Archiapelago (between Southeast Asia and Australia) whose antipode is in the Amazon basin; Greenland, whose antipode is in east Antarctica; and New Zealand’s North Island, whose antipode is in southern Spain.

For my friends back home: before you go racing to this cool website to determine your antipode: the antipode of nearly every point in the United States is in the Indian Ocean, with the exception of two tiny, remote spots in eastern Colorado which are each the antipode to two tiny, uninhabited, volcanic islands: St. Paul Island and Amsterdam Island.

Other cool facts about antipodes!

* At any given moment, there exist two antipodal points with the same temperature and barometric pressure. This is known as the Borsuk-Ulam Theorem, which is also known as the most intellectually advanced thing to which I have, and likely will, ever hyperlink.

* There is archipelago of uninhabitable volcanic islands, called the Antipodean Islands, about 500 miles southwest of Stewart Island, which is just off the southern coats of the South Island of NZ.

* In 2020, a guy in Spain and a guy in New Zealand made an “Earth sandwich” by each placing a slice of bread at the exact antipode of one another at the exact same time (in case you’re wondering: yes. Yes, they found each other on Reddit. Of course they found each other on Reddit).

And lastly, here is a list from Wikipedia of the only cities who have exact or nearly exact antipodes (look how many are in New Zealand! 😍):

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Yes, Monty, There Really Are Stickers in New Zealand!

I have a lot of penpals, one of whom is Monty, who is three. I just got a beautiful handmade card from Monty in the mail. The letter starts off with him telling me with great assuredness that he knows where New Zealand is because he’s seen it on a map. BUT—-and this is very important—-he does NOT know if they have stickers in New Zealand. He enclosed some for us in case we do not have access to them here.

Monty’s hand-painted card
The awesome stickers he sent us!



Dear Monty,

They DO have stickers in New Zealand!! In fact, I just wrote you a return letter and enclosed a few NZ stickers for you. I’m sending you stickers of the famous New Zealand silver fern, a tui (“too-ee”) bird, and a pōhutukawa blossom. Tuis have a wonderful call, and pōhutukawas are called the “New Zealand Christmas Tree” because they produce beautiful red blossoms around Christmastime.

Thanks for the letter, Monty! I can’t wait for my next one!

Love,
Your friend Hilary

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My Pounamu Necklace

Stewart gave me something very special upon my return to New Zealand: a pounamu necklace.


I first heard about pounamu necklaces in a New Zealand guidebook that my friend and I were pouring over in late 2019 in preparation for our month-long trip the following March. The guidebook’s very brief explanation was that “pounamu” (a te reo Māori word, pronounced “pu-na-mu”) necklaces are almost always carved from nephrite jade, occasionally referred to as “greenstone.” You see them everywhere around NZ, from cheap knockoffs in tourist shops to real handcrafted ones made in an artist’s studio.

The thing I love so much about them is that you cannot buy yourself a pounamu necklace. You must be given one.

A pounamu is a significant gift to receive, as they are considered precious and therefore aren’t gifted lightly (and they can also be expensive). You may be given one to mark a special occasion–a friend of mine received one when they left their job of many years–or you may have the honor/honour of being the recipient of a pounamu because, for example, you have finally made it back to New Zealand after having been away for so long. ☺️

Real pounamu necklaces are hand-carved, one of a kind works of art. Jade has long played a significant role in Māori culture and is considered a taonga (treasure). Some of the traditional pounamu shapes are hei matau (fish hook), a pikorua (twist), a koru (spiral shape representing an unfolding silver fern), a whale’s tail, or a simple circle.

The necklace Stu gave me was made by an artist in Kūaotunu, a tiny little town about 20 minutes north of Whitianga. My pounamu is shaped like a toki, a Māori woodcutting tool similar to an axe. It represents courage, determination, success, and bravery, all of which I will need in spades on my journey towards becoming a permanent resident of this incredible country.

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I’m here!

Me and Stewart down at Auckland harbor (“harbour”)

I made it! (I actually made it four days ago but we spent two days in Auckland and then I had to get settled). Anyway: I made it!

Stewart and I spent two days in Auckland when I flew in. January 1st & 2nd are public holidays here, and lots of businesses close for the whole week to allow for employee vacations (“holidays”), so there were a number of places that weren’t open. But the upside is that we had the city to ourselves, and spent our time exploring on foot.

One event of note that I have to share is when were walking across a bridge at the harbor (“harbour”) when a loud alarm sounded, which Stu said sounded like a fire alarm. He suggested we should stay put in case they needed to evacuate a building (it sounded like a fire alarm) and I of course wanted to stay put to watch the drama. And then after a few seconds a voice came over the loudspeaker and said “GET. OFF. THE. BRIDGE.” We looked around and realized everyone else had gotten off the bridge, apparently having read the BIG SIGNS saying that the bridge raises up to allow boats out. Oops. 😬

Auckland from the harbor/harbour. FYI the alarm means to get off the bridge.

I haven’t gotten out and about much yet, so I don’t have any of those “😍” New Zealand photos to post, but I do have some pictures of the absolutely charming little garden at the back of the absolutely charming little house we’re renting.

I met one of our next door neighbors yesterday when I spotted her tuxedo cat through the fence (I’m obsessed with tuxedo cats) and ran over and proceeded to “psstpsst!” it and lure it over so that I could take its picture, and suddenly this nice woman poked her head around the corner of her house and went “Oh! Hello!”. Great way to make a new friend, by stalking their cat through the fence. Anyway, both Mars and her owner are lovely. The former is a little shy, but I’ll make her love me if it’s the last thing I do.

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Bon Matin de Papeete, Tahiti!

This is the view from the adorable little open courtyard at the Faa’a International Airport in Papeete, Tahiti where I am currently:

1. Drinking a hot coffee (it’s 6:15 am and I’m trying to pep up for the last leg of my journey)
2. Sweating to death
3. Blogging from the airport like some insipid influencer. Lord forgive me.

I had the best flight.
I know; when do you ever hear anyone say that? But it’s true. I was on a gigantic Boeing 787 with cheerful Polynesian Islands-inspired fabric, lots of leg room, and extremely kind Air Tahiti Nui attendants with big smiles, light-up “Happy New Year” tiaras, and flowers behind their ears. I was settling into my aisle seat in the middle row (three rows of three) when I realized that the attendants were starting to make final preparations for takeoff…..with no one else seated in my row, or even close to me at all. Whaaaaaat. This was a dream come true; a not-full giant airplane for an 8 hour flight and an entire row to myself. I was trying to figure out of I was allowed to use all three seats when the attendants started coming around and inviting people to move to empty rows (again, when does that ever happen?!). Literally my best-case flight scenario, especially since I hold the irrational yet firm belief that the fewer the people on the flight, the less the plane weighs and therefore the less likely it is to fall out of the sky (tell me I am not alone here?).

So I put up the arm rests, opened two of the three little complimentary blankets, stacked up the three little complimentary pillows, made a nest, watched the first 6 minutes of “Meg 2,” and fell asleep (sorry, Jason Statham, not even you could keep my eyes open in such a cozy little fort). I only woke up once, to the captain saying “Au nom de notre équipage, je vous souhaite à tous une bonne année!………….[awkward pause]………….Happy New Year. It is now 2024.” It was a bit anticlimactic when no one responded but then one person did one of those lackluster little “Woohoos”, and someone else joined in, and then everyone was clapping and wishing one another a bonne année/Happy New Year.

I’m thinking that this dreamy flight was the universe’s way of apologizing for that 2022 flight to NZ when my phone was stolen and then everyone at the San Fran airport except myself and my fellow Fiji Air passengers was evacuated due to a bomb threat.

The disbelief at the possibility of an entire row to msyelf.
The nest.

I walked off the plane in Papeete, Tahiti and was immediately drenched in sweat. It’s 80 degrees here with 85% humidity and I was in corduroys and a hoodie. After freshening up and changing into something more weather-appropriate, I paid 800 something ($800?)* for a flat white (the closest thing Oceania has to a coffee as we Americans know it; essentially a delicious, creamy latté) and am now settled into a corner of the adorable little open courtyard awaiting my 5.5 hour flight to Auckland, which departs in about three hours.

Merçi beauCOUP, Ait Tahiti Nui, et Bonne Année!

*CFP: French Pacific Franc. 800 CFP is $7.39.

PS: I know my photo-vs-text formatting is wonky. I’ll work on it!

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Let’s Do The Time Warp!

For the second year in a row, I’m flying out of the States at 11 PM on December 31st and arriving in New Zealand on the afternoon of January 2nd (due to the time difference). Which means that for the second year in a row, I’m completely missing January 1st. But 2024 is a leap year, so now I’ll only be one day behind for the rest of my life as opposed to two!

This time I’m flying from Los Angeles to Tahiti to New Zealand (I’m posting a map is because I personally had no idea where Tahiti was). I was ecstatic to find out that Los Angeles to Tahiti is only 8 hours, and Tahiti to Auckland is only 5.5. Usually the first leg is 12-13 hours and the second one is 3. This is so much better.

Last year, my absolutely ridiculous flight pattern was Boston–>Toronto–>Vancouver–>Auckland. Yes, you’re readying that correctly: I went north, flew aaaaaaallthe way across Canada, and then flew aaaaaaall the way south to NZ. It was the cheapest flight I could find, for obvious reasons, though I did get two New Years, one while flying over Canada and one somewhere over the Pacific. (Whenever I book a flight, I always think about comedian Mike Birbiglia’s bit where he’s on a flight and the PA system comes on and says “Thank you for choosing Delta!.” And Mike says “I didn’t choose Delta. If it had been five cents cheaper I would have flown on a kite”).

I’ll be celebrating New Year’s somewhere over the Pacific in a few hours. Wherever you’re celebrating, be it on land, at sea, or in the air, and whether or not you’re even staying up til midnight, Happy New Year’s to all and to all a good night. May 2024 have wonderful things in store for all of us!

Onwards and upwards (literally), lotsa love, and talk to you all on the flip side,

Hilary ❤️

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“Washashore”

I had no idea, until I floated a list of possible blog name ideas on social media last month, that the term “washashore” is unique to Cape Cod. A washashore is anyone who has moved to the Cape from somewhere else, as opposed to someone born on the Cape (a native Cape Codder). I’ve heard the word washashore my entire life and never knew how specific and local it was. I love learning surprising new things.

And while we’re on the subject of funny words in my blog’s subtitle, “Kiwiland” is not an actual nickname for New Zealand. I made it up because it’s whimsical…like “washashore.”